India guide

Food and the arts

A continent on a plate, Sound, screen & sport. 8 min read.

Families walking and sitting on the wide sand of Marina Beach at dusk
An evening on Marina BeachPhoto: B Balaji, CC BY-SA 2.0

A continent on a plate

07 Food & regional cuisineRegional kitchens · Iconic dishes · Vegetarian by default · Tea, coffee, sweets

Eat Your Way Across India

Five hundred kilometres in India means an entirely different cuisine.

India is not one food culture but eight, and within each, dozens. The grain shifts (wheat in the north, rice in the south, millets in the east). The fat shifts (ghee, mustard oil, coconut, sesame). The spice shifts. The way of eating shifts. Below is a starting map.

Indian food is not a cuisine. It's a confederation of cuisines, each as old and as deep as a European country's, and all of them are spoken on the same passport.
A food writer's working definition

The regional kitchens of India

North Indian · Punjabi, Jain, Bania & Marwari kitchen

Wheat-led: rotis, naan, parathas. Hearty Punjabi dhabas, refined Jain, Bania and Marwari kitchens (often vegetarian, no onion or garlic), rich slow-cooked curries with cream, ghee, dried fruits and dry spices. Tandoor-grilled meats and what the world widely recognises as "Indian food".

Butter ChickenDal MakhaniRogan JoshChole BhatureTandooriBiryaniNaanPaneer TikkaKebabChaat

South Indian · the rice coast

Rice-led. Fermented batters (dosa, idli), coconut, curry leaf, mustard seed, tamarind. Lighter, brighter, faster cooking. The everyday breakfast that conquered the world. Filter coffee, an art form.

Masala DosaIdli & SambarHyderabadi BiryaniAppam & StewChettinadFilter KaapiRasamUttapamPongalAvial

East Indian · the river kitchens

Bengali, Odia and Assamese cooking, mustard oil, freshwater fish, mustard paste, posto (poppy seed), rice, panch phoron (five-spice). And the world's best sweets: rosogolla, sandesh, mishti doi.

Macher JholShorshe IlishKosha MangshoRosogollaSandeshMishti DoiPakhala BhataPitha

West Indian · commerce on the coast

Three distinct traditions in one belt: Maharashtrian street food (Mumbai's vada-pav, pav-bhaji); Gujarati vegetarian thali (sweet, sour, savoury together); Goan Catholic fish-and-coconut (vindaloo, sorpotel, xacuti).

Vada PavPav BhajiMisal PavDhoklaTheplaUndhiyuGoan VindalooBombay DuckSolkadhi

Twelve dishes to try in your first month

Hyderabad
Hyderabadi Biryani
Long-grain basmati slow-cooked in a sealed pot (dum) with saffron, meat and aromatic spices. India's most ordered dish.
Delhi
Butter Chicken (Murgh Makhani)
Tandoor-grilled chicken in a velvety tomato-cream sauce. Invented in Delhi in the 1950s. Best eaten with hot naan.
South India
Masala Dosa
A crisp fermented rice-and-lentil crepe folded around spiced potato. Served with sambar and three chutneys.
Mumbai
Vada Pav
Mumbai's beloved street burger, spiced potato fritter in a soft bun with chutneys. ₹20. Every corner.
Pan-India
Pani Puri / Golgappa
Hollow crispy shells filled with spiced tamarind water. Different name in every city. India's most addictive snack.
North India
Paneer Tikka
Cubes of fresh cheese marinated in yogurt and spices, grilled in a tandoor. The vegetarian's tandoori.
Punjab
Chole Bhature
Spiced chickpea curry with deep-fried fluffy bread. Best for late breakfast. A North Indian Sunday institution.
Goa / Bengal
Fish Curry & Rice
The coastal staple. Coconut-based in Goa and Kerala; mustard-based in Bengal. Always with rice. Always fresh.
Pan-India
Chaat (Bhel · Sev Puri · Aloo Tikki)
India's family of savoury snacks: sweet, sour, crunchy, spicy all at once. A craft, not a recipe.
Gujarat / Rajasthan
Thali
A round platter of 6-15 small portions: dal, sabzi, curry, rice, roti, raita, pickle, sweet. Unlimited refills. The complete meal.
East & North
Mithai (Indian sweets)
Rosogolla, gulab jamun, jalebi, sandesh, kaju katli, ladoo, barfi. Gift them; receive them; eat them at every celebration.
Masala chaiPhoto: Miansari66, Public domain
Pan-India
Masala Chai & Filter Coffee
Chai, spiced milk tea, India's national drink. Filter coffee, the South's foamy, frothy ceremony. Order both; pick your tribe.
🌱Vegetarian by default

India has the world's largest vegetarian population, an estimated quarter to a third of the country never eats meat. Many more eat vegetarian on certain days of the week. Restaurants always mark ● for veg and ● for non-veg on menus. Many homes and entire neighbourhoods (Jain-heritage areas of Mumbai, Gujarati colonies) are strictly vegetarian.

Jain dietary practice goes further still, no root vegetables (onion, garlic, potato), no eggs. A common consideration when hosting.

🐄What's restricted, where

Beef, legally restricted or banned in Maharashtra, Gujarat, Delhi, UP, MP, Rajasthan, Haryana and others. Available in Kerala, Goa, the North-East, Karnataka, West Bengal. Always check.

Pork, not served in Muslim-owned restaurants or homes. Common in Goa, the North-East and Christian-majority pockets of Kerala.

Alcohol, mostly available but with state-by-state rules. Gujarat and Bihar are dry states. Most cities have "dry days" on major holidays (Gandhi Jayanti, Republic Day, Independence Day).

💧
Water and the new arrival's stomach: Drink only bottled, boiled or RO-filtered water for the first 3-6 months. Brush teeth with bottled water initially. Avoid ice unless you're certain of its source. Start with cooked, hot, busy-restaurant food, street food can wait until your gut has acclimatised. Carry ORS sachets on early travel; for any antibiotics or anti-inflammatories, please carry only what your doctor has prescribed.

Sound, screen & sport

08 Arts, music & entertainmentBollywood & the regional cinemas · Classical music · Dance · Sport · Literature

Cinema, Music, Sport

A culture that sings, dances, plays cricket · in that order.

India produces more films, more music and watches more cricket than any other country on earth. Engaging with even one of these shortens the social distance enormously.

Cinema · not just Bollywood

India produces 1,800+ films a year across 20+ languages, among the highest film output of any country. "Bollywood" is one of nine major film industries; the south's films now routinely outsell their northern counterparts globally.

🎬Bollywood

Hindi cinema · Mumbai

The world's most prolific film industry, song-and-dance, melodrama, family epics. Names everyone knows: Shah Rukh Khan, Aamir Khan, Salman Khan, Deepika Padukone, Alia Bhatt.

🎥Tollywood & Kollywood

Telugu & Tamil · South India

Bigger-budget action spectacles. Baahubali, RRR, KGF, Pushpa were all South Indian films. Stars: Rajinikanth, Allu Arjun, Prabhas, Mahesh Babu.

🎞️Regional cinemas

Malayalam · Bengali · Marathi · Kannada

Often the most artistically respected. Malayalam cinema is having a global moment; Bengali cinema gave us Satyajit Ray; Marathi cinema is quietly excellent.

📺Streaming

OTT in India

Netflix, Amazon Prime, JioHotstar, Sony LIV, Zee5. Indian originals: Sacred Games, Family Man, Delhi Crime, Made in Heaven, Panchayat.

Classical music & dance

Two great parallel traditions with deep, centuries-old roots.

🎵Hindustani · the Northern tradition

Sitar, sarod, tabla, bansuri (flute), sarangi, santoor. Built around ragas (melodic frameworks) and taals (rhythmic cycles), often improvised live for hours. Pandit Ravi Shankar, Ustad Zakir Hussain, Bismillah Khan, Hariprasad Chaurasia.

🎶Carnatic · the Southern tradition

Voice-led; veena, mridangam, ghatam, violin. More compositional, less improvisational. The Chennai December Music Season is among the world's largest classical music festivals, 1,500+ concerts over several weeks. M.S. Subbulakshmi, T.M. Krishna.

The eight classical dance forms

Each Indian classical dance is its own visual language, the costume, the makeup, the hand-gesture vocabulary (mudras) and the rhythm cycle differ entirely from one to the next.

Bharatanatyam
Tamil Nadu

The oldest of the eight. Sculptural poses, sharp rhythms, devotional themes. Crimson silk sari, gold jewellery, jasmine in the hair.

Kathak
North India

Storytelling through pirouettes and intricate footwork. Mughal-court refinement, ankle bells (ghungroo), Hindu & Sufi narratives.

Odissi
Odisha

The signature tribhanga (three-bend) posture. Sensual, sculpted, temple-rooted. Silver jewellery on red-and-gold silk.

Kuchipudi
Andhra Pradesh

Speedy footwork & dance-drama. The signature feat: dancing on the rim of a brass plate while balancing a pot of water on the head.

Manipuri
Manipur

Gentle, devotional, Krishna-centric. Distinctive cylindrical kumil skirt and round-bell embroidered veil. No facial expression in the male form.

Mohiniyattam
Kerala

Lyrical, swaying movement. The "dance of the enchantress", always in cream-white with gold-bordered Kerala sari, jasmine in hair.

Kathakali
Kerala

The vast green-faced makeup (pacha vesham) is unmistakable. Towering headgear, layered costumes, all-night dance-dramas of the Mahabharata.

Sattriya
Assam

The youngest of the eight, born in Assam's satras (Vaishnav monasteries). Narrative, devotional, only formally recognised as classical in 2000.

Sport · cricket is religion

🏏Cricket

India is consistently among the world's top-ranked sides in Test, ODI & T20 cricket, and won the 2024 T20 World Cup. The Indian Premier League (IPL), March to May each year, is the world's richest cricket league and the most-watched sporting event in India by a long margin.

The 2025 IPL on JioHotstar drew record online viewership, among the most-watched sporting streams anywhere (reach figures vary by source). Pick a city team and you'll have an instant conversation with every cab driver, colleague and security guard for two months.

⚽Football, hockey & kabaddi

Football is enormous in Kerala, Bengal, Goa and the North-East. The ISL (Indian Super League) draws strong crowds. Field hockey is long regarded as India's national sport (India has no officially declared national sport), with 8 Olympic gold medals, more than any other country in the sport.

Kabaddi (K-A-B-A-D-D-I), the indigenous wrestling-tag sport with ancient origins, is uniquely Indian. The Pro Kabaddi League is India's second-most watched televised league after the IPL, with 200M+ viewers per season.

🏸Badminton, tennis, chess

India has world champions across all three. Chess in particular, D. Gukesh became the youngest ever World Chess Champion at 18 in December 2024, defeating China's Ding Liren to become India's second world champion after Viswanathan Anand. India now has 85+ chess Grandmasters (up from only a handful in 2000), among the largest pools in the world.

Badminton: P.V. Sindhu (Olympic medallist). Tennis: Sania Mirza, Leander Paes, Mahesh Bhupathi.

🏏
The IPL conversation starter: If you arrive between late March and late May and your office is glued to mobile screens after 7pm, that's the IPL. Pick a team based on the city you live in (Mumbai Indians, Royal Challengers Bengaluru, Chennai Super Kings, Delhi Capitals, etc.), you'll have instant common ground with every cab driver, colleague and security guard for two months.

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